Z CLUB (G.B.)
(Affiliated to Z Club 92)
36 Floribunda Drive, Briar Hill, Northampton. NN4 8RZ
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NEWSLETTER 11 - 1ST QUARTER 1997
Happy New Year to you all. Those of you who have paid up for the next year will
find their JCB included with this newsletter, those who yet to renew please send in
your forms as soon as possible as this is your final reminder. I have included a
second renewal form just in case you may have mislaid the first one.
The questionnaire which was included with the renewal form raised some
interesting requests. A full breakdown of the responses will be included with the
next newsletter, to date though the most popular request was for details of layouts.
So to all you members with layouts, descriptions and details of construction would
be greatly appreciated for inclusion in future newsletters.
As a starter I have written up a description of my new layout WINTERSDORF
which can be seen on the exhibition circuit from this year.
The construction of the layout utilises several tried and tested methods plus one or
two unique ideas of my own.
The breakdown sheet this time is for the Swiss CE6 Crocodile. Continuing with
the scratchbuilding theme I have included the NEM Standards for Z gauge to
assist with building track and points.
WINTERSDORF
The layout is a freelance attempt at creating
a winter scene based on the Swiss German
boarder area at Christmas time, the snow
laying thick on the trees and ground,
glistening in the sunlight, trains pass over
the frozen river just below the picturesque
village where preparations are well in hand
with the placement of lights on the tree next
to the church and the Christmas market in
full swing.
Construction
The layout is built in the tried and tested method of open framework with
trackbeds of 4mm plywood cut to shape and placed on 8mm plywood scenic
formers. After thoroughly testing the track and points (this is most important with
60% of the track hidden) the formers were then covered with a fine square aluminium
mesh to form the base of the scenery, this is then covered with Polyfilla allowing
it time to harden and bond to the mesh. A second coat is then applied forming a
strong reinforced contoured base for the scenery. This can then be covered with a scatter
material of your choice.
As Wintersdorf was to be a winter scene a third thin coat of Polyfilla was prepared,
which was then mixed with Heki Snee Glitzer (Snow Glitter) and applied overall.
Before this hardened a further scattering of glitter was sprinkled onto the plaster
mix, this gave a pleasing frosted effect. The trees gave a few headaches until a
successful method was achieved, this entailed covering the trees with a sloppy
coating of Polyfilla and glitter mix using a block of wood, brushing the mix into the
branches.
This mix was also used to cover the roofs of the buildings, giving a pleasing
"Christmas card" effect. (A wag at the layout's first outing asked as to when we
would be cutting the cake and could he have a piece.)
Hints and Tips
Maintaining Z Gauge - Part 1. The following is an extract from an article by Brian
Ward taken off the Internet which I thought very intresting.
Marklin Mini-Club locomotives are really built to last, but due to their small size,
you will find that dust and grime can be a real problem. Think of it this way,
the dust particles are almost three times as large to your locomotives as they
are in HO!
Important!
If you are uncomfortable working with very small parts, tend to work with a bit
of force, are nervous about it, or something else that would inhibit you terribly
with work on very small, delicate parts, then you probably should not take
apart your locomotives. It requires a great deal of patience, a little bit of
coordination, and fine motor skills to work successfully. A good dealer or a
skilled friend can really help you out if your are not able, and really, it's no fault
of your own. As you probably know, Mini-Club is expensive and it's just as
expensive to replace (most) things.
The following tools are very useful:
- A few small and precise flathead screwdrivers
- Tweezers - two small pointed and one small flat are good, but you can
get away with just a pointed one if you are pretty good with
screwdrivers.
- GOOD lighting
- Some sort of stabilizer - foam with a groove, another person, etc.
- Magnifying glass (recommended for reading the writing on your stock
anyway.
Track
There is a peculiarity about Marklin Z track - the rails changed thickness at
least once through the years (I don't know when, but I have track from the late
seventies which is different - also Peco track is different again). The old stuff
was thicker and not really as nice. If you mix it in with new, try not to do it
around curves because that usually causes your rolling stock to go either
"whack" in hitting the old rail (and possibly derailing) or a "thunk" when being
released from the old to new. With a little filing, you might be able to fix this,
but I haven't tried yet.
Be careful to have your track aligned. Seemingly trivial gaps and bumps can
be traumatic!
Pantographs
Watch it. Those things are delicate and will bend if you breath the wrong way
on them. The "old style" two (actually four) arm ones are touchier and if you
bend one, you will either have to replace it (cost approximately œ6) or make a
go to fix it. If you want to make a go at fixing it, first take it off the loco and
then take it apart (pull the thick bottom rods out of the base). With some
small, precise needlenose pliers, you can attempt to bend the problem area
back into shape (magnifying glass helps a lot). Try to have a working and
assembled pantograph as a model nearby to look at. If it doesn't work - buy
a new pantograph.
We will continue this article in the following newsletters with features on
maintaining locomotives and stock.
New Items
As 1997 is to be the 25th anniversary of Z Gauge, Marklin, in their infinite wisdom,
have decided to produce a limited edition of their Class 10 Steam Locomotive in
solid gold with three diamonds for headlights for 7,000 DM, with a total production
of 450 for the year. I and others think this is a bit of a let down when there is so
much more they could have produced to celebrate this occasion, bearing in mind
that this is an existing item re-hashed. Perhaps now they have taken on Minitrix N
Gauge, Z gauge will become merely a collectors' hobby, with just repaints of
existing lines. If anyone hears differently please let me know.
NEM 310 - STANDARD DIMENSIONS FOR WHEELS AND TRACKS
SO RAIL HEAD
B BACK TO BACK 5.25 mm min
G GAUGE 6.8 mm max
P RADIUS OF HEAD 0.1 mm
F FLANGE WIDTH 0.75 mm max
S SHOULDER 5.2 mm max
N WHEEL THICKNESS 1.55 mm max
T FLANGE THICKNESS 0.41 mm min - 0.45 mm max
H FLANGE DEPTH 0.6 mm min
K FLANGE FACE TO WHEEL BACK 5.9 mm max
C CHECK RAIL TO CHECK RAIL 5.9 mm min
I hope this is clear to you as it was taken out of German model railway book and
was not a very clear reproduction.
Sales and Wants
We have had no information on any sales and wants this month.
I will be attending the following exhibitions over the next few months with my
layouts:
8th March Northampton, Northants
15th/16th March Truro, Cornwall
19th April Leyland, Lancashire
10th/11th May Chippenham, Wiltshire
Due to unfortunate circumstances - that is, a slipped disc - I was unable to attend
the exhibition at Richmond on 15th/16th February. My place was taken by Simon
Chant, with his layout 'Haslital'. Naturally, my attendance at the exhibitions listed
above will also depend on my recovery from the slipped disc.
Again, thank you for your continued support. Any articles for inclusion in the
newsletter would be gratefully received - please, please, please!
Yours sincerely,
GRAHAM JONES